Green Screen Induction

Setting up the Green Screen.
Before anything consider where setting up as it needs to be fairly near power sources.

The long silver bar lengthens out and attaches on top of a lighting stand at each end using spigots. Sand bags should then be placed on the stands to add stability. The green screen then covers the silver pole by going over the pole, (green side up) and is clamped on using G-clamps or bulldog clips.

Lighting.
There is a large piece of fabric used for diffusing light. There is also long black poles that connect to create a square frame for this fabric, with velcro on them so ensure the velcro is facing inwards. Once the fabric is connected to the frame, this is called a Scrim.

Attachments then connect to two more stands which connect to clamps, with a rounded edge and a stepped edge. Usually the rounded edge is used, the stepped edge of the clamp is for strange angles. The Scrim then is clamped on to these stands. The big black handle on the clamp allows the Scrim to be set at any desired angle, sandbags should also be added to the Scrim's stand to ensure stability.

Large Tungsten Lights are then set up on tripods. Ensure no one is looking into the lights before saying 'sparking' (to allow everyone to know not to look at the lights) and then turn them on via the plug. If nothing happens, say sparking again and try the switch on the lights wire. If at all possible extension plugs should be used so the lights can be moved easily.

Kino lights (that have dimmers/faders) are then set up at the other end of the green screen for filling light. The camera should then be set up on a tripod the exact same measurement away from the subject as the previously filmed scene on location if necassary.

This is a called clean plate shot, where the lighting is then adjusted to make an even shade of green around the subject, for easy editing.